Nestled alongside Mexico and Guatemala, Belize is roughly the size of Wales, yet offers coral reefs, rainforest, pine-covered ridges and paradise beaches, making it a destination with many possibilities. The varied landscape is home to many different ethnic groups, so there’s a vibrant food scene that makes the most of the bounty of the sea and tropical forests.
It’s easy to have as active or relaxed a holiday as you want. The diving and snorkelling are first rate, while there are also incredible hiking options through rainforest, with caving and tubing thrown in. My children surprisingly loved fishing and, less surprisingly, visiting tiny islands by motorboat and swimming with stingrays. They also went wild for the smoothies made from fresh exotic fruits…
Breakfast in Belize
Belizean breakfasts must be some of the best in the world – you’ll find familiar Central American burritos, breakfast tacos and rancheros, but fry jacks are a speciality. Eat the puffed-up tortilla pockets stuffed with eggs, chaya (a kind of spinach), beans or anything you fancy. The relative proximity to the US means Belize caters to the predominately American holidaymakers, so there’s also more indulgent sweet treats like waffles and pancakes, plus fresh fruit bowls and juices. Try soursop – its juice is packed with tropical sweetness and a hint of citrus, but is milky in appearance (it also makes excellent ice cream). Mango, pineapple, papaya, coconut and watermelon can be found piled up on roadside stalls or freshly juiced in the markets. Everything is fully ripened on the trees, resulting in sweetness you’d never taste from the same fruits back home – you might just drink some of the best juice of your life here.
Spectacular seafood
The seafood is also impeccably fresh, as you might expect from a country with so much coastline. In higher-end resorts, you could eat lobster for breakfast, lunch and dinner, if you wished. Make the most of this freshness by trying ceviche – choose from shrimp, snapper or the ever-present lobster. Catching (and cooking) your own is easily arranged: take a motorboat trip out to the reef where the whole family can try reeling in a fish or two. Follow it up with snorkelling and catch sight of stingrays, nurse sharks and plenty of other fish, too. Then, for lunch, the captain will cook the catch on a minute island.
Mayan specialities
Most of the country’s major Mayan sites are inland, but you can’t travel far without coming across ancient stone settlements (although some estimates suggest only 10 per cent of the remains have been excavated). The most famous (and largest) are Caracol, Lamanai and Xunantunich, located primarily along the western border of the country. There’s a huge amount to learn about the ancient Mayan civilisation, and a tour of one of these spectacular temples can provide a valuable introduction. The Mayans grew and harvested maize, grinding it into the tortillas that are still eaten today. They were also the first people to grow cacao for food – the fermented beans are ground to a paste and mixed into a drink with spices such as chilli and cinnamon, or sweetened with honey, then drunk as part of ceremonies or rituals. Now, it’s part of the tourist trail – cacao bars are on sale in every gift shop, and you can join a class to make your own.
Where to go
San Ignacio, midway down the western border, is one of the country’s most popular towns, and has a fun, hometown atmosphere. Its proximity to the lush rainforests and cultural mix makes it a foodie hotspot. It has a great market, and the sheer variety of cuisines on offer can be seen at Pop’s – a breakfast institution that still bears the name of its founder. Stay at the sleek yet friendly West House Boutique Hotel, which is close to the centre of town. For seaside fun that’s as laid-back as it gets, Hopkins village – across on the eastern seaboard – is a must-visit. There’s a wealth of hotels to stay at and restaurants catering for all budgets. Seiri del Mar resort offers self-catering apartments right on the sea, but the on-site restaurant, Embers, is well worth visiting for dinner or a drink, whether or not you’re staying at the resort. A smart spot for dinner is Singanga, and try breakfast at Roast Coffee House for incredible smoothies and enormous platters, from waffle stacks and loaded omelettes to avo shrimp toast and cinnamon bananas foster french toast. There’s nothing for it but to retreat to your hammock after that!
Where to stay
King suites at West House Boutique Hotel start from £122 per night; a bedroom beachside villa plus den room with breakfast at Seiri del Mar starts from £300 per night.
